Robe à l’Anglaise Photoshoot

Two years ago I made a robe à l’anglaise out of the Waverly Indienne curtain fabric. I documented the project here, but I didn’t have a proper kerchief, cap, hat, or shoes at the time and wasn’t satisfied with the photos I was able to get of the gown. Since then I’ve acquired the rest of the accessories so I recently set up a meeting with a photographer to get better photos. We went to the local National Park where battles of the Revolutionary War were fought, and I love how everything came out!

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The amazing photographer is The Nerdy Monkey.

I’m hoping that in the future I can get nice photos like these of more of my gowns. They spend so much time just hanging in my closet, I’d love to be able to show them off more.

Thanks for looking!

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18th Century Pocket

While I was at Rufflecon wearing my polonaise I realized that I really needed a pocket to keep my phone and things in while I walked around the con. I had been teaching myself a little bit of embroidery since the Jamestown conference last year anyway, and I thought a pocket would be a good first project to work on. I looked up examples of extant pockets online and rather than copy anything exactly, I sketched out my own free-hand design.

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I stitched it on a scrap of linen left over from lining my bliaut. The embroidered face is backed with a second piece of linen so that I don’t catch the back of the embroidery as I put things in and out. The back of the pocket is muslin because I had run out of linen scraps that were big enough.

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The binding and ties are more linen scraps. I actually still have to finish sewing the ties, but since the pocket itself is done and it’s been a while since I posted, I thought I should upload it now. I’ve also finished my Tudor waistcoat that I started over the summer, but I can’t get the damn thing to photograph well, so I’m probably going to wait to post about that one until I finish my kirtle so I can post about them together.

Second October Project: Merida

I don’t quite remember when I got the idea, but for at least a year or two now I’ve been wanting to make a Merida costume that I could use for Halloween, comic/anime cons, and any other event that seemed like it needed a kick-ass Disney princess. If you’re not familiar with Merida, she’s this awesome Scottish lass from Brave who don’t care about no marriage traditions, she just wants to shoot her bow and explore the majesty that is Scotland in the 15th(ish) century:

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Photo from disney.wikia.com

I’ve been slow to get started on this costume because I’ve been under this sort of Halloween curse for the past 5 years or so, where I really want to dress up in costume for work but it always somehow turns out that I have the day of Halloween off. Sometimes it’s because of the way my work schedule worked out, or like last year, because Halloween is on the weekend. When I realized back in the spring that Halloween 2016 would be on a Monday I finally purchased the fabric from fabric.com to start my costume.

My goal was to make it semi-historically accurate, but still accurate to the character. On the historically accurate side I used 5 yards of wool from fabric.com, since that’s what a Scottish lass would wear; I planned on using hand-bound eyelets for all of the closures; and I used a pattern that is similar to a cotehardie for the dress body. I referenced the cotehardie instructions from The Fashionable Past’s blog post, but I reused the pattern pieces from my 12th century bliaut since the basic dress body shapes are very similar.

To keep the dress looking movie-accurate I used stormy colored wool (it’s sort of a navy-gray-green mix); drafted my own pattern for the segmented sleeves; added the laced cut out to the front neckline; and closed it with lacing up the back so that the front would have the solid look of the movie dress.

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The white chemise underneath is a separate garment, for ease of washing, that I threw together from white linen that I found in my stash (and couldn’t remember what it was originally purchased for). The body is two simple rectangles sewn together at the shoulders with a wide-cut neck, and the sleeves are two very wide trapezoid shapes sewn to the body with gussets.

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I started the wool gown over the summer, but halted construction to work on my polonaise for Rufflecon, while hoping I could still get both gowns finished in time for their respective events. By the time I got home from Rufflecon I had only two weekends left to make the chemise, do fitting adjustments on the gown, hem it, make the sleeves, and put about 4 dozen hand-bound eyelets into it to be ready for Halloween. Work was very busy at the same time, and I actually worked myself so hard that I wasn’t sleeping much and ended up having to take a sick day because my exhaustion got to me and I felt like I was coming down with the flu or something. That gave me a day to sit on the couch and hand-sew, which helped me finish it. But luckily I didn’t end up actually getting sick. I was excited that I was finally going to get to dress up for Halloween!

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In the staff room at work.

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Photo from one of my coworkers.

The wig was a $13 ebay find. It’s a little short and a tad top-heavy, but for $13 I was happy with it. For people that knew Merida, it left no doubt as to who I was dressed up as. One patron asked to take my photo so he could show his daughter who is a huge Brave fan. Other people thought I was Fiona from Shrek (in human form), despite Fiona’s lack of curly, unruly hair.

There are a few adjustments I’d like to make before I wear this again. The chemise sleeves need to be shortened a bit, and I’d like to gather them and/or add a cuff at the wrist, because these kind of billowy sleeve hems are no good for an archer. I also need to acquire a bow and quiver, especially before I cosplay with this. Because I threw this together so fast at the end, my eyelets in the back are a bit messy and uneven. I wish I had just done side-lacing because, as I found Halloween morning, this is impossible to get into by myself. I had to put it on backward and then try to turn it around after I had loosely laced it and ended up getting a bit stuck in it at one point. I had to ask one of my coworkers to help me tighten it and do up the last few eyelets once I got to work. I can’t change the eyelets at this point, but at least I’ve learned for next time. No more back lacing gowns!

I’m taking November off from sewing to participate in NaNoWriMo, and to let myself recover from the marathon of October. Once December rolls around I already have plans for a few small things I’d like to work on before the year is over, but you may not hear from me again until then!

Sword Dress

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I took a detour from the 18th century for the past week or so to make myself a more modern dress. A friend of mine has a Spoonflower account and enjoys designing and uploading fabric prints in her spare time. One of her designs is this collection of 18th and 19th century swords, available in various sizes. Spoonflower recently had a sale on their cotton sateen, which is one of my favorite fabrics to work with, so I asked my friend to adjust the spacing on the print a bit to work better for the design I had in mind, and finally ordered the fabric after having the idea in my head for months.

Because the background of the print is all black, the printed fabric (Spoonflower prints their fabric, they don’t dye it) ended up feeling a bit like it was coated. However, the coated feeling works for the drape of fabric that I needed and the print did not run at ALL when I pre-washed it, so I’m not too bothered by it, though I know some people might be, which is why I mention it.

I used the pattern that I drafted for my map dress (that you can see buried in this post), but I second guessed myself on the seam allowances for some reason, and at first the fit of the bodice came out completely wonky and everything I did to try to adjust it just seemed to make it worse. Luckily I hadn’t trimmed anything down with scissors yet, so I just took out the seams where I had tried to “fix” things, went back to my original cuts and seam allowances, and magically, the fit was just fine. Little slivers of my gray lining fabric are visible here and there, but nothing too noticeable. I finished it off with an invisible zipper in the side seam.

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Bodice Back

I can’t wait to wear it! Especially with the new season of Game of Thrones starting soon. Now it’s back to my various 18th century projects…

12th Century Bliaut

Way back in May or June I started this dress for a historical costuming demonstration at my library. I got caught up with other projects after the demonstration, but I’ve been slowly working on it bit by bit ever since. I was trying to get it 100% done by the end of December, but I finished the last couple of eyelets at the beginning of January, and I finally finished the sash today.

I didn’t use a pattern for this dress, but instead used this tutorial by Izabela of Prior Attire. The shell of the gown is made of navy blue wool. The lining and the kirtle are made of linen. I wanted silk for the sash, but the fabric options in my area are a bit limited, so I settled for a gray poly with a silk-like texture for now.

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Linen kirtle.

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Gown before lacing.

For some reason the gown is very hard to photograph, especially on the dress form. It doesn’t help that the navy is so dark that it always seem to show up black.

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Finished set.

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The trim around the neckline are just ribbons that I picked up at a trim store.

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The dress opens on the sides to allow it to slip over the wearer’s head. I put hand-bound eyelets in using an awl and used leather cord to lace up the openings.

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The long trailing sleeves are drapey and dramatic.

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I’m waiting for snow to try to take some worn photos of this. The giant storm that’s hitting the East Coast decided to give us a miss.

Next project is more wool and linen: an 18th century menswear set. I’ve got the waistcoat half done and the frock coat cut out, so hopefully it won’t be another two months before I have an update to post.

In which eyelets and buttonholes are the devil, but we persevere.

It’s been a busy two months, and I’ve definitely been all over the place. I feel like I have a lot to sum up, so forgive me if this post is less coherent than usual.

Firstly, I did finish the sleeves on my Renaissance Faire gown. There were yet more eyelets involved. I wanted to throw things.

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But I finished everything and it looked pretty, and then I got to wear it in the 85 degree weather, so I was happy, albeit slightly dead from the heat.

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Once again I had people thinking I worked at the Faire. On the final weekend that I went with some friends I kept getting asked for directions while I stood outside shops with my tea while my friends looked at merchandise. It’s flattering in a so-good-you-fit-in kind of way.

I also finished a pirate outfit for my dad, so I dressed up as a pirate with him for the Pirate themed weekend of the Faire.

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Looking at the photos, I feel like the fit of his outfit is off, though it’s not as obvious in person as it looks in the photos. I used the Simplicity Jack Sparrow pattern, and the vest sizing was basically for someone the size of The Rock, and while my dad is barrel-chested, The Rock he is not, so I had to fiddle with the vest quite a bit. I obviously need to practice menswear some more. The vest also involved buttonholes. I once again wanted to throw things.

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He spent a good half an hour picking out this hat at the faire while I held his IPA and threatened to drink it on him.

After I finished those two things that had been on my plate for a while I wanted to take a break and do some less-intense projects (with less eyelets and buttonholes) so I started out by making a new dress with this awesome map fabric that I stumbled upon at JoAnn’s!

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I get so many compliments on this dress when I wear it, even though I swear map-print dresses aren’t a new idea. I’ve definitely seem them somewhere before…

I also made a few ribbon cockades for some Faire people, and a sash to wear with an outfit for an alt-fashion conference this past weekend, but I didn’t get good photos of those.

The other project I completed was a headdress inspired by medieval icon paintings, and ones that I’ve seen on the runway. I made this out of a headband, some wooden dowels, gold spray paint, fake flowers, and lots of hot glue.

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Turns out I wasn’t the only one who wanted one of these saintly crowns, because I saw at least two other people at the conference with similar headdresses. They must be in this season.

I think that’s most of what’s been going on for the past two months. It’s probably going to be another two months before I post again, because I’m going away for a week in November, and of course the holidays are right after, but I usually get a lot of sewing done around the holidays since I’m off work, so hopefully afterwards I’ll have something good to post! I hope to keep it to one project per post in the future.

For now I leave you with a photo of some of the supplies I picked up at the Rev War reenactment back in August. Can’t wait to play with these soon!

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