Sword Dress

swordfabric

I took a detour from the 18th century for the past week or so to make myself a more modern dress. A friend of mine has a Spoonflower account and enjoys designing and uploading fabric prints in her spare time. One of her designs is this collection of 18th and 19th century swords, available in various sizes. Spoonflower recently had a sale on their cotton sateen, which is one of my favorite fabrics to work with, so I asked my friend to adjust the spacing on the print a bit to work better for the design I had in mind, and finally ordered the fabric after having the idea in my head for months.

Because the background of the print is all black, the printed fabric (Spoonflower prints their fabric, they don’t dye it) ended up feeling a bit like it was coated. However, the coated feeling works for the drape of fabric that I needed and the print did not run at ALL when I pre-washed it, so I’m not too bothered by it, though I know some people might be, which is why I mention it.

I used the pattern that I drafted for my map dress (that you can see buried in this post), but I second guessed myself on the seam allowances for some reason, and at first the fit of the bodice came out completely wonky and everything I did to try to adjust it just seemed to make it worse. Luckily I hadn’t trimmed anything down with scissors yet, so I just took out the seams where I had tried to “fix” things, went back to my original cuts and seam allowances, and magically, the fit was just fine. Little slivers of my gray lining fabric are visible here and there, but nothing too noticeable. I finished it off with an invisible zipper in the side seam.

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Front

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Back

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Bodice Front

 

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Bodice Back

I can’t wait to wear it! Especially with the new season of Game of Thrones starting soon. Now it’s back to my various 18th century projects…

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12th Century Bliaut

Way back in May or June I started this dress for a historical costuming demonstration at my library. I got caught up with other projects after the demonstration, but I’ve been slowly working on it bit by bit ever since. I was trying to get it 100% done by the end of December, but I finished the last couple of eyelets at the beginning of January, and I finally finished the sash today.

I didn’t use a pattern for this dress, but instead used this tutorial by Izabela of Prior Attire. The shell of the gown is made of navy blue wool. The lining and the kirtle are made of linen. I wanted silk for the sash, but the fabric options in my area are a bit limited, so I settled for a gray poly with a silk-like texture for now.

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Linen kirtle.

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Gown before lacing.

For some reason the gown is very hard to photograph, especially on the dress form. It doesn’t help that the navy is so dark that it always seem to show up black.

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Finished set.

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The trim around the neckline are just ribbons that I picked up at a trim store.

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The dress opens on the sides to allow it to slip over the wearer’s head. I put hand-bound eyelets in using an awl and used leather cord to lace up the openings.

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The long trailing sleeves are drapey and dramatic.

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I’m waiting for snow to try to take some worn photos of this. The giant storm that’s hitting the East Coast decided to give us a miss.

Next project is more wool and linen: an 18th century menswear set. I’ve got the waistcoat half done and the frock coat cut out, so hopefully it won’t be another two months before I have an update to post.

In which eyelets and buttonholes are the devil, but we persevere.

It’s been a busy two months, and I’ve definitely been all over the place. I feel like I have a lot to sum up, so forgive me if this post is less coherent than usual.

Firstly, I did finish the sleeves on my Renaissance Faire gown. There were yet more eyelets involved. I wanted to throw things.

Lacing Eyelets

But I finished everything and it looked pretty, and then I got to wear it in the 85 degree weather, so I was happy, albeit slightly dead from the heat.

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#ded

Once again I had people thinking I worked at the Faire. On the final weekend that I went with some friends I kept getting asked for directions while I stood outside shops with my tea while my friends looked at merchandise. It’s flattering in a so-good-you-fit-in kind of way.

I also finished a pirate outfit for my dad, so I dressed up as a pirate with him for the Pirate themed weekend of the Faire.

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Looking at the photos, I feel like the fit of his outfit is off, though it’s not as obvious in person as it looks in the photos. I used the Simplicity Jack Sparrow pattern, and the vest sizing was basically for someone the size of The Rock, and while my dad is barrel-chested, The Rock he is not, so I had to fiddle with the vest quite a bit. I obviously need to practice menswear some more. The vest also involved buttonholes. I once again wanted to throw things.

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He spent a good half an hour picking out this hat at the faire while I held his IPA and threatened to drink it on him.

After I finished those two things that had been on my plate for a while I wanted to take a break and do some less-intense projects (with less eyelets and buttonholes) so I started out by making a new dress with this awesome map fabric that I stumbled upon at JoAnn’s!

mapfabric

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I get so many compliments on this dress when I wear it, even though I swear map-print dresses aren’t a new idea. I’ve definitely seem them somewhere before…

I also made a few ribbon cockades for some Faire people, and a sash to wear with an outfit for an alt-fashion conference this past weekend, but I didn’t get good photos of those.

The other project I completed was a headdress inspired by medieval icon paintings, and ones that I’ve seen on the runway. I made this out of a headband, some wooden dowels, gold spray paint, fake flowers, and lots of hot glue.

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Turns out I wasn’t the only one who wanted one of these saintly crowns, because I saw at least two other people at the conference with similar headdresses. They must be in this season.

I think that’s most of what’s been going on for the past two months. It’s probably going to be another two months before I post again, because I’m going away for a week in November, and of course the holidays are right after, but I usually get a lot of sewing done around the holidays since I’m off work, so hopefully afterwards I’ll have something good to post! I hope to keep it to one project per post in the future.

For now I leave you with a photo of some of the supplies I picked up at the Rev War reenactment back in August. Can’t wait to play with these soon!

menswearfabric